CARL E. FEATHER / Star Beacon
GENE SIGEL, owner of South River Vineyard, stands in the doorway of what will become a wine cellar and product storage room. Sigel used precast highway culverts to create the twin cellars at his Harpersfield winery.
Building a cave from a bridge
Vineyard owner takes advantage of recession to make bold investment
By CARL E. FEATHER - Staff Writer - cfeather@starbeacon.com Star Beacon
Work on the cellar started in mid-May. Sigel hopes to have it completed by the end of July, and definitely before harvest begins Sept. 1. A functional part of his winemaking business, the cave will also expand the winery’s ability to accommodate and please guests.
The exposed exterior concrete walls will receive a brick facade to match the porch that Sigel added to the back of the church two years ago. The top of the culvert will be insulated then covered with stone to create a patio area, half of which will be covered. The same types of columns used on the porch will be used in the new patio, which will be slightly lower than the porch, but offer guests a view of Lake Erie.
Sigel says the cost of these improvements will be around $450,000, a significant investment for any small business. However, he also sees it as one of the last large expenditures the winery will have to make for some time. Forty of the 45 acres he and Heather own are planted in vineyards. His annual sales are holding steady at 2,000 cases annually; excess grapes are sold to other producers. If his vines produce an exceptional quality of fruit, the cellar will provide the extra capacity to create his own product that year and store it.
“The last couple of years I’ve come to realize I need to take responsibility for my product,” says Sigel, who does not plan to add a bottling operation to his winery. “For the future of my business, I needed a large creation are to work in and store my product.”
Sigel admits his winery is somewhat of an anomaly in the local industry. He doesn’t offer food or entertainment; indeed, he and Heather have abandoned their original plan of offering weddings and parties there. It’s all about the wine and making it the best it can be using Ohio grapes.
To that end, Sigel recently withdrew from the Ohio Wine Producers Association and Grand River Valley group over philosophical differences. He’s disturbed by the proliferation of wineries that import juice from outside the state and market themselves as an Ohio winery. He’s also concerned about new vineyard starts being improperly managed. Sigel feels these issues stem, in part, from the influx of rookie owners who made their money elsewhere and are using it to scratch a lifestyle-change itch.
As someone who has all his assets tied up in South River Vineyard, Sigel is concerned about the long-term viability of these startups. And he’s concerned about the local tourism industry’s narrow focus on wine and the lodge as the path to economic prosperity for the entire county.
“I don’t think these wineries and vineyards are going to pull this county our of a recession,” he says. “They are kind of a rich man’s business.”
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